Free crochet pattern: X-Stitch Neckwarmer

I love cowls. I didn't even know what a cowl was before I started crocheting - I'd heard the terms "snood," "balaclava," "infinity scarf," but never cowl. My first crochet pattern I termed an infinity scarf because it was long and could be wrapped several times, and I was quickly corrected by the crochet and knit community. "My dear," they said (because yarn-lovers are invariably sweet). "My dear, that is not an infinity scarf because it does not have a twist. It is, in fact, a cowl." Of course they were right, but when I created this pattern I was still not comfortable with the term, so I called this one the X-Stitch Neckwarmer. Ha! I've come around and correctly title my patterns now, but this one is special - my one and only neckwarmer pattern. I think I'll keep it that way.

One note on this wool: swoon! I received an amazing haul of yarn from a fellow member of the Buy Nothing community (if you aren't a member, check it out! There are groups all over the world!) I immediately fell in love with this ball because although there was no label, it was clearly all wool (but not scratchy!) and hand-dyed. Such a generous neighbor, and I still have some of the lovely yarns she gifted me.
I designed this cowl to fit snuggly for optimum warmth in cold months, but you can easily add stitches (in multiples of 2) to make it less snug. If you prefer a printable pattern, you can purchase the pdf for $2.99 at my Ravelry store, which also includes a photo-tutorial for the special starting chain.

And if you don't want to make your own, this very cowl is available for sale in the shop too! But for the free pattern, click to keep reading.

x-stitch neckwarmer

by brooke a. cassell @ the ivy killers

 

This neckwarmer uses a combination of stitch types to create a textured center section with a more solid border on the top and bottom. Any worsted or aran-weight yarn will work fine, but a yarn with a bit of stiffness to it will accentuate the differences in texture and help the cowl stand up on its own, like the photo above, which pictures a cowl made with 100% wool. A softer, more yielding yarn will give a cowl that lays more softly on the neck. Use whichever you prefer!

            This pattern can also be extended to create a longer infinity-style scarf. You can make it as long as you’d like, but be sure to use an even-number of stitches (not counting the starting chains). 

Just look at the definition of these x-stitches when you use a solid color wool!

Supplies and Specs

Yarn: Worsted Weight (4)  125 – 160 yards (114 – 137 meters)

Tools:  Size J (6.00mm) crochet hook (or other size to obtain gauge)

             Darning needle (for weaving in ends)

             Scissors

Gauge:  6 stitches and 4 rows of HDC = 2”, 6 stitches and 4 rows of DC = 2.25”

Completed Size:  22” (56 cm) circumference, 8” (20.3 cm) tall

This is a snuggly fitting cowl. To increase the size, use a larger hook and/or increase your stitch count by a factor of 2.

SKILL LEVEL:   Beginner

TIME TO COMPLETE:   2 - 4 hours

StiTches used (All instructions use american terms):

Chain (CH)

Slip Stitch (SS)

Single Crochet (SC)

Half-Double Crochet (HDC)

Foundation Half-Double Crochet (FHDC)

Double Crochet (DC)

Pattern Notes

• This pattern is worked in the round.

• Starting chains are NOT counted as stitches.

• See “Special Stitches” section for FHDC instructions.

• At the beginning of each round, instead of chaining, you’ll use an alternate style stitch to get up to stitch height. See the “Special Stitches” section for instructions and photos. 

Special Stitches

Foundation half-double crochet (FHDC):

Make a slipknot on your hook. Chain 3. Yarn over and insert hook into the 1^st chain (3^rd chain from hook), yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and pull through one loop. This has created your next chain (you may want to put a chain marker in it or hold it with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand to keep track of it. It looks a little different than a normal chain (more like a figure 8 than a V).

Yarn over and pull through all three loops. You have created your first FHDC!

Yarn over and insert hook into the new chain you created in the first part of the last stitch. Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and pull through one loop (chain). Yarn over and pull through all three loops. Repeat until you have the total FHDC stitches for the size of scarf you are making (plus the starting 2 chains, which do NOT count as a stitch).

***Note about hook size*** Some people tend to make their foundation round a bit looser and some tend to make it a bit tighter. Having tension on this round that doesn’t match the rest of the neckwarmer can cause a bit of rippling on the edge. So you may want to go up or down a hook size for this round, depending on your individual tension.

Alternate Chain Stitch to Begin Each Round

Join to the first real stitch in the round (not the top of the chain).

After joining the previous round, SC in the same stitch as the join, and then CH 1. This brings you up to the same level as a CH 2, but looks tidier.  

This special stitch is referred to as a [SC + CH 1], and it does NOT count as a stitch. Next, yarn over, then insert your hook into the SAME stitch as the join and the SC+CH1 and execute your next stitch.

At the end of the next round, you’ll skip over the top of the [SC + CH 1], and join to the first “real” stitch of each round.

Pattern

Round 1: FHDC 64 (starting CH 2 does NOT count as a stitch). Join to first stitch (both loops that create the “V” at the top of the stitch) with a SS to create a loop, being careful not to twist it. (64 HDC) If you like, put a stitch marker in this SS join so you’ll be able to find it easily at the end of the next round.

Rounds 2 - 4:   SC in the same stitch as the join. CH 1. (Does not count as a stitch. See the “Special Stiches” section for instructions and a photo tutorial.) HDC in the same stitch and in each stitch around. Be careful not to HDC in the previous round’s join (with your stitch marker, if using). SS to the first HDC stitch (NOT the [SC + CH 1]). (64 HDC - remember, the [SC+CH1] does not count as a stitch) If using, move your stitch marker to this SS join, and continue this for each round.

Round 5 :    SC in the same stitch as the join. CH 1 (does not count as a stitch). DC in the NEXT stitch. Cross behind that DC to DC in the same stitch as the join and [SC + CH1]. This is the first completed X-stitch, which consists of two DCs with the second crossing behind the first. *Skip one stitch. DC in the next stitch. DC in the skipped stitch crossing behind the previous DC.* Repeat from * to * around. Being careful not to DC in the previous round’s join, SS to the first DC stitch (NOT the [SC + CH 1]). (64 DC – 32 X-stitches)

Round 6:   SC in the same stitch as the join. CH 1 (Does not count as a stitch). DC in the same stitch and each stitch around. Being careful not to DC in the previous round’s join, SS to the first DC stitch (NOT the [SC + CH 1]). (64 DC)

Rounds 7 – 12:    Repeat rows 5 & 6 three times. (64 DC)

Round 13:    Repeat row 5. (64 DC)

Rows 14 - 17:    Repeat round 2. (64 HDC)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. To create a seamless look on the very first round where you first joined your foundation row to itself, use the yarn tail to sew the small gap closed.

***Note about size*** If you prefer a taller cowl, continue repeating rounds 5-6 until you are at your desired height minus 1.75” (4.5 cm). Then proceed with rounds 13 – 17.

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For pattern support, please contact Brooke at theivykillers@gmail.com. This pattern is copyrighted (2016) Do not alter or sell this pattern. You have permission to sell any items made from this pattern, but please credit the original pattern “X-Stitch Neckwarmer” at www.theivykillers.etsy.com. If you’re on Instagram, tag @theivykillerscrochet for a feature on my page!

Thank you and enjoy the pattern!