Herringbone Double Crochet - Crochet Tutorial

Week 2 - Riffs on the Basics

Day 1 - Herringbone Double Crochet

We've made it to the second week! Are you ready to start on another 5 days of new crochet stitches? Me too! This week we're going to learn stitches that use combinations of basic techniques to create interesting textures and patterns.

To start off the week, I am pleased to present the Herringbone Double Crochet stitch. It creates an alternating arrow pattern and works up quickly once you get the rhythm going. The resulting fabric is flexible with lots of air incorporated for extra warmth-trapping ability. Pure winter-wear for this stitch!

What it's good for:

• Scarves/cowls
• Hats
• Blankets/Afghans

 

Remember to upload your projects in Instagram. Tag me @theivykillerscrochet and use hashtag #newcrochetstitchperday for a feature on my feed!

Supplies Used for this Swatch:

Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease, color 167 (Eggplant)
Hook: USL11/8.00mm (for foundation chains only)
           USJ10/6.00mm 
 

Techniques Used and Abbreviations:

(All instructions are given in US terms with UK terms after the slash as applicable, as US/UK.) 
Stitch (st)
Stitches (sts)
Chain (ch)
Herringbone Double Crochet (hbdc)

Stitch Instructions:

Herringbone Double Crochet (hbdc): Yarn over and insert hook in next stitch. Yarn over and pull through both the stitch and the 1st loop on the hook. Yarn over and pull through one loop. Yarn over and pull through remaining two loops. 

For each tutorial I'll include instructions written out long-form for intro-level crocheters and short-form for more advanced crocheters. The instructions are the same but include different levels of detail. Use whichever you prefer!

Intro-Level

Chain the number of stitches you want + 1

Row 1: Place your sts in the back bar of each ch. This is the extra loop at the back of the ch, not the front or back loops of the "v." This will create a stretchier row than you get when you crochet into the top loop, and it will keep the row the same size as subsequent rows. Sk1 ch and hbdc in the 2nd ch from the hook. The ch on your hook and skipped ch will count as the first st. hbdc in each ch across to the end of the row.

Row 2: Turn and ch2. This counts as the 1st st. hbdc in each st across to the end of the row. Place your final hbdc in the top of the turning chain (the 2nd ch).

Repeat Row 2 until you reach the desired size.

Advanced

Chain any number + 1

Row 1: hbdc in 2nd ch from hook and across.

Row 2: Turn, ch2, hbdc across. 

Repeat Row 2 until you reach the desired size. 

Tips and Modifications:

• The traditional hbdc pattern will tell you to ch3 at the beginning of each row. However, I followed the advice from Jess at makeanddocrew.com to ch2 instead to keep the edges straight and avoid a slight bulge. Definitely a great tip!
• To get the right tension right off the bat, I went up two hook sizes for the initial foundation chains then switched to the recommended hook size to start Row 1.
• After Row 1, be sure to put the final hbdc each row into the top of the turning chain, since that ch2 counts as a st.
• This stitch only works in rows - not in the round - for the simple reason that it is working rows back and forth that create the arrow pattern. If you're making a hat, you'll need to make it as a rectangle, then seam into a tube, and finally, seam up the top. Best for slouchy, not fitted, hats. Same goes for cowls, which need to be made as a long rectangle then seamed into a circle.

Not much else to say, as this one is pretty simple! The first few stitches are a little awkward because the first couple steps of the stitch feel almost like a slip stitch. After a few repeats, though, you'll get the rhythm, and then it works up really quickly.

Helpful Links:

• How-to video by Make and Do Crew